The smoke that thunders

Luka — Wed, 08 Oct 2008 08:39:57 +0000

The smoke that thunders or “Mosi-Oa-Tunya” is a local name for Victoria Falls. The Falls lie on the border between Zimbabwe and Zambia and can be visited from both countries. I visited the Falls from Zimbabwean side, from the town Victoria Falls.
The Vic Falls were discovered by Dr. David Livingstone the famous explorer and he named them after English queen Victoria. Livingstone later died in Zambia and the town on Zambian side is named after him. The smoke that thunders is in fact quite suitable name. When you arrive to Vic Falls town you can already hear the noise of the falling water and when you visit the Falls the powerful sound makes it almost impossible to talk.

The river that created this natural wonder is the mighty Zambezi. I would recommend to everybody to do a river cruise on the upper flow of the river. A truly amazing experience. An afternoon cruise will reveal you the other face of Zambezi. Peaceful, lazy and full of wildlife – what a contrast to the wild and roaring falls!

An afternoon cruise would be ideal as the light becomes gentle and the animals become more active again. We’ve been on the cruise for less than three hours but we’ve seen a lot of wildlife. This croc payed us a visit – it came directly to the boat – probably waiting for some leftovers. It is fun to watch the Hippos bathe in the river making loud noises that I will never forget. And there is a plenty of bird-life as well! The cruise was organised by an enthusiastic birder mr. Darryl Tiran. He has an extensive knowledge about the nature (especially birds) and he also runs a budget lodge called the Twitchers. I would strongly recommend to contact him, he will make your trip to the Falls an unforgettable experience. Here is his e-mail (ecolynx(at)zol.co.zw) and his mobile (+26311610222).

The monument to the famous explorer lies within the park.

The gorge, created by the mighty Zambezi.

Beautiful rainbow appears over the Falls.

The river literally “thunders”!

Because of the constant moisture the forest is really lush. A remarkable walk in the shade of this beautiful rain-forest!

One of the highlights of the visit to Victoria Falls is definitely a helicopter flight! A twenty minutes ride is enough to circle the Falls two times – try to get a seat in front – you can take photos through a small window.

Here you can clearly see the upper part of the river (bottom of the photo) Where the river runs wide and slowly. Then there is a “smoke” created by the falls and later the narrow gorge cut into softer terrain.

A nice perspective of the Falls. Here at the bottom of the photo there is a lush forest where you can walk and enjoy the views of this natural wonder. There are several view points where you can get closer to the cliff for a clear views.

Here are some further tips of what to do and on what to be careful about;

-Have a dinner at Boma restaurant. Try the game meat from warthog, buffalo to different types of antelopes. And of course you get a certificate if you eat the Mopani worm! I have mine on the wall:)
-You can trade your old clothes and shoes at local handicrafts market in Victoria Falls town. Locals make fantastic wooden and stone sculptures, souvenirs, kitchen utils…
-Bargain hard!
-Keep your valuables safe. The town is not dangerous, but pickpockets are plenty.
-The best time to visit the Falls is in the morning. The light comes from the right direction, it is not too hot, there are less visitors and you might spot some wildlife.
-Even in the dry season the moisture is a big problem so keep your camera and other electronics in a dry place. You will get wet no matter how hard you try to stay dry.
-Do not bother to change your money to local currency! you will have difficulties to spend it and the mighty Dollar is accepted everywhere.

I spent two days at Victoria Falls and i can say it is just enough. People say that Zimbabwean side is better to watch the Falls, but Zambian side is more pristine and there are better wildlife spotting opportunities. I can only say that Zimbabwean side is fantastic!

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The smoke that thunders

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